Groundhoppers’ Guide: River Plate (Montevideo)

Club Atlético River Plate – not to be mistaken for its more illustrious namesake across the water in Buenos Aires – is a great choice for the groundhopper when visiting Montevideo. Here’s more about the club…

While the two great names of Uruguayan club football – Nacional and Peñarol – dominate the domestic scene, with 100 titles out of 120 contested – there are other smaller clubs that are well worth the attention of the groundhopper visiting Montevideo.

One of those is Club Atlético River Plate (Montevideo). 

A brief history of Club Atlético River Plate (Montevideo)

The club was founded in 1932 at the start of Uruguayan football’s professional era. It was a merger of two clubs – Olimpia and Capurro – whose players kept the spirit of the original River Plate Football Club alive by playing in the port area (Aduana) and playing in red and white. River Plate FC had been a pioneer of the game in Uruguay, bagging four league titles before folding in 1925. 

The original River Plate FC’s biggest legacy is that its change shirt of sky-blue shirts and black shorts were adopted by the Uruguayan national side in honour of River Plate having beaten elite Argentine club Alumni in 1910. River Plate FC was founded in 1897, four years before the most famous River Plate was founded in Buenos Aires.

Back in the late 19^th century, ‘The Dockers’ – Los Darseneros – of the original River Plate had been required to adopt an English name, as that was the language of the British-founded Uruguayan Football Association (now AUF). By 1932, Spanish was the association’s language so the new club could launch as Club Atlético River Plate. Like the original, it wore red and white stripes.

In the club’s first season, goalkeeper Federico Omar Saroldi died after an injury sustained in a match. River Plate’s ground in the leafy Prado district is named after him. River Plate has several Second División titles to its name and has progressed as far as the semi-finals of the Copa Sudamericana (2009), the South American equivalent of the Europa League.

The matchday experience at Club Atlético River Plate (Montevideo)

The Estadio Saroldi has the feel of an English minor county cricket ground. It’s in the leafy Prado park complex, where rivals Montevideo Wanderers and Bella Vista also have grounds. The Saroldi is enclosed within woodlands with a modest white pavilion and concrete benches painted red and white. 

For my visit, the away side was Peñarol, who sold out their side of the ground, the hinchada (supporters) decked in the iconic yellow and black. I was fortunate enough to be invited to the ground by a club director, but you can buy tickets via the River Plate website; just look for ‘Comprar Entradas’ (Buy tickets) and it will take you through to a ticket partner website. I never paid more than US$10 for a match ticket in Uruguay. 

I sat in the corner of the main home platea (side stand), while behind the goal to my left a small River Plate barra (hardcore) flapped their tirantes (large ribbons) and set off flairs. They were drowned out by the huge Peñarol support opposite and were eventually silenced after the visiting Carboneros (Coalmen) took a late lead, which they ultimately defended.

Like other smaller club experiences in Uruguay, there is a real family feel to River Plate. People bring their own yerba mate, a bitter herbal infusion that is drank from a gourd via a metal straw filter called a bombilla. The presence of riot police may look intimidating but there was zero antagonism at this match. If sitting among the home fans, you will have to wait until the away fans have left before the home end can vacate the stadium.

How to get to Club Atlético River Plate (Montevideo)

Estadio Parque Federico Omar Saroldi is on the south side of the Prado district, served by bus routes 185 and 186, although taxis from the city centre are plentiful. There will be an entrance for home fans and away fans.