Groundhopper’s Guide: Club Atlético Banfield

One of the easier groundhopping experiences in Argentina is Club Atlético Banfield, located in the south of Buenos Aires. Here’s more on how to visit the Estadio Florencio Sola.

For many experiences within Buenos Aires as a foreign groundhopper, it’s often hard to get hold of tickets. For games at Boca Juniors and River Plate, sure, you need to use a tour company to gain access to an unforgettable experience and it often helps to go with a tour company to guarantee safe access with good company and local knowledge for other games. 

However, visiting Club Atlético Banfield, I found it a very easy, almost British-style experience – a train ride from the city centre to an affluent suburb with bustling shops, walking 20 minutes or so through a leafy neighbourhood to reach a tight-knit, four-stand ground. 

A brief history of Club Atlético Banfield

Part of the reason Banfield has a British-style feel is probably because that’s how the club started out. Back in the late 19^th century, the British built many of Argentina’s railways and introduced football to Argentina. The area was named after Edward Banfield of the Great Southern Railway (Gran Ferrocarril Sur), and the club was founded in 1896, which puts it among the oldest clubs still active in Argentine football, alongside Quilmes Atlético Club and Gimnasia y Esgrima La Plata. The club has the nickname ‘El Talandro‘, which means ‘The Drill’; doubly curious as no one seems sure of the origin.

In 1951, Banfield could even count on the support of the ‘spiritual leader of the nation’, Eva ‘Evita’ Perón, for their championship play-off final versus Racing Club. The Avellaneda giants won, leaving Banfield to wait for a long-awaited first title.

Banfield has won several lower league titles but just one senior league title, the 2009 Apertura (Opening) of the Primera División. Banfield’s big rival is nearby Lanús, with whom it contests El Clásico del Sur (The Southern Classic). Notable former Banfield players include Javier Zanetti, Julio Cruz, Mauro Camoranesi, and James Rodríguez.

The matchday experience at Club Atlético Banfield

Banfield has been wearing its attractive green and white kit since 1904 and it makes for an attractive colour on a sunny afternoon with the barra (hardcore fans) at both populares (end stands) with their tirantes (big ribbons).

I bought my tickets online for my match versus Belgrano by following the club’s news updates and clicking through to their ticketing provider’s website. I spent the equivalent of US$27 and had my ticket delivered to my phone. I speak Spanish and had already navigated Buenos Aires for a couple of weeks, so if you’re not comfortable sourcing your own tickets, you may wish to use a tour company, such as the Outside Write podcast sponsor, Pibe de Barrio.

It was a bizarre time for kick-off – midweek at 17:00 local, which probably affected both the turnout and the atmosphere. However, there was a lovely sunset and view across to the city 14kms away to the north. 

How to get to Club Atlético Banfield

Banfield can be reached by train from Plaza Constitución station. It’s a 1.6km walk from Banfield station to the Estadio Florencio Sola, and the area is built on a grid system, so it’s easily navigable. Remember to take ID. I used my driver’s license rather than take my passport.