Football on the Rock: Soccer in Gibraltar

In this guest post, Matt Barnes visits Gibraltar and shares his experience of groundhopping in the tiny British Overseas Territory at the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea.

Gibraltar is a fascinating nation located at the southernmost point of Spain, with a vast and complex history. With an area of only a touch more than 2.5 square miles, it’s smaller than the city of Chichester, but one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Nothing is ever simple here, even pilots require special training, and when there is an incoming plane, traffic is held up as the runway doubles up as a road! When you have this little space, you have to make the most of it.

Remarkably, there are 11 teams in the Gibraltar National League with a further 10 in the Intermediate League, mostly made up of reserve teams, including the wonderfully named FC Hound Dogs. The national team, if FIFA rankings are to be believed, are sandwiched in between Eritrea and Sri Lanka, but the game is on the rise here, as Steven Gonzalez, Communications & Media Manager for the Gibraltar FA tells me; “a long term plan has been put into place and is being driven by our National Team Head Coach, Julio Ribas, to ensure that players can develop and grow through our U19s, U21s and then become full internationals.” 

Development and structure are clear themes for the association, and it is no different for the women’s side, headed up by Laura McGinn, former football development officer for the Worcestershire FA, now the Women’s Football manager for Gibraltar. Gonzalez explains: “A long-term plan and strategy has been put into place to get girls regularly playing football in a comfortable environment where they can have fun and express themselves. This has filtered all the way up the ladder right through to our Women’s National Team and Women’s Futsal National Team. This year will see our U18s Women’s National Team enter official European Competition for the first time ever, and plans are well underway to ensure that our Women’s National Team follow suit at the next available opportunity.”

Football culture on the Rock is as diverse as the Country itself, with a real mix of British, Spanish and Gibraltarian residents. The Premier League is omnipresent (as always!), and La Liga has a big following, but the Gibraltar FA are trying to tap into this clear passion. “On any given Saturday you can walk round all the bars and pubs and find Gibraltarians and residents dressed up in their teams’ colours watching on TV. Slowly but surely the Gibraltar National League is growing its engagement too. The Association has embarked upon a project to digitally launch the Gibraltar National League, this season, with the aim of launching a whole new brand and identity for our premier domestic competition,” says Gonzalez, with all matches broadcast for free online.

Victoria Stadium

On to the first match of the weekend, held at Victoria Stadium, and what a ground it is. All competitive football on the Rock is played here, and 20 minutes before kick-off, the stadium is a hive of activity inside, but the gates are locked. The sports bar adjacent to the gate has a raucous atmosphere with Rangers on the screen and, as the minutes draw closer to kick-off, someone rushes from the nearby Gibraltar FA office to open the spectator gates to the relief of ten or so people waiting outside. Victoria Stadium is open to the elements, with one goal backing onto the runway, and the other loomed over by the Rock of Gibraltar. 

Originally opened in 1926, Victoria Stadium has been renovated and rebuilt over various stages of its history, with the dreaded running track a recent addition. The star of the show is its wonderful main stand, resplendent in the colours of the Gibraltarian flag of red and white. The stand is connected to the dressing rooms, as well as an indoor futsal court. To get a better look, there is a makeshift stand opposite. No real facilities to mention apart from the aforementioned sports bar and nearby petrol station, which doubles up as a snack bar.

Joined by a Czech and several German groundhoppers (thanks Futbology app!) local fans witness an ill-tempered, but entertaining match played in blustery conditions, eventually won by FCB Magpies. The shouts from the crowd are a mixture of Spanish, English, and the very unique Gibraltarian dialect. The victorious team have a new coach in the dugout. Having worked at various clubs in England, Nathan Rooney, formerly manager of non-league side Colne, has begun his work impressively. 

Saturday Double-Header

On to Saturday and the first of a double-header, featuring Celtic-conquering and perennial champions, Lincoln Red Imps, going up against the self-proclaimed “Stepping Stone club”, Europa Point FC. Europa Point FC’s ethos is to bring in youth players who have been released from Spanish, English, and other non-EU clubs, and it shows – their average age is around 22. They even took a shock early lead before normal service was resumed. The Red Imps showed why they have dominated Gibraltarian football for so long, eventually running out 5-1 winners. As the match progressed and the sun went down, the crowds got bigger, and the Rock looked resplendent in the sunset. The terrace was a heady mix of families, groundhoppers and two older gentlemen who looked like they have seen it all; they barely took their eyes off their sunflower seeds and beer. 

The evening kick-off and perhaps the highlight of the weekend is second against third in the table, Europa FC versus St Joseph’s. The nominal home team is a side with a difference, as Lawrence Stagnetto, Media Manager for Europa FC, explains. “The club is very much a family club and there’s a lot of emphasis on youth development and in giving back to the community. We are ‘more than a football club’; we have sections in hockey, futsal, basketball, volleyball, athletics, netball, table football and others. We also have a strong social conscience and are active and vocal on many issues.” This connection is clear in the stands, where an engaged and vocal group of passionate supporters for Europa mingled with the directors and senior staff members. Another full-blooded contest with three red cards sees Europa cruise to a 4-1 victory ahead of the halfway split, when the league breaks off into a relegation and championship group. 

The match begins only a mere 45 minutes after the previous one ended, and whilst it makes for a groundhopping utopia, it’s clear every club sharing one stadium has its downsides. There is talk of a new stadium and plans have been drawn up, but in the meantime, as Stagnetto explains; “There used to be other football grounds in Gibraltar, but land is at a premium and currently the only civilian ground is the Victoria Stadium. This year should see the stadium get a big facelift and it will become a dedicated football facility with another pitch being built in the south district of the rock.” 

Gibraltar is a challenging environment for football to thrive, but what next for the game on the Rock? According to Stagnetto, for Europa FC, the dream “is to one day qualify for Europe’s premier club competition, the UEFA Champions League. We have seen clubs from small nations progress into the knockout stages before, and we believe that with the right investment and direction this dream could one day become reality. In the next few seasons, we hope to see more clubs from Gibraltar qualify for European competition.” 

For Gibraltar as a whole, Steven Gonzalez from the country’s FA adds; “The Gibraltar national team is the symbol that unites Gibraltarian football lovers at home and abroad and fuels their pride in their footballing nation. No matter their opinions on performances, tactics and team selection, Gibraltarians will unite behind their players.”

Gonzalez concludes: “The Gibraltar FA is soon to launch its new five-year strategy, which will clearly outline its long-term vision for football on the Rock. Watch this space! Come and visit Gibraltar and experience our footballing culture and love of the game, whether it be to watch a national team game, to watch domestic football or indeed to watch football in one of our many local establishments!” 

You won’t find a much more unique setting than this to watch a match or two.